Museo de Bellas Artes in Seville

Just when we think we can't do another museum we are fascinated all over again.  Museo de Bellas Artes in Seville is an art museum, housed in a former convent, portraying the works of famous spanish artists.  We walked along the gardens, looking at the tiled walls and I wondered if I was going to be in trouble for dragging everyone through another museum.  We had already walked several miles to get there.

There are 14 separate rooms with different works none of which we would probably recognize.  We asked where to start and the staff said the best room was number five.  We went straight there.  I am a save-the-best-for-last sort of girl but not in the case of museums.

Our breaths were taken away upon entering the unforgettable room number five.  The girls asked to go back to the gift shop so they could purchase books and pencils to make notes on what they saw.

The room was filled with altarpieces.  The Catholic Church required pictures to teach and win over the faithful.  From the Renaissance onwards, chapels began to be filled with these explanatory scenes.

The painting the girls are looking at is what we know as the Immaculate Conception by Murillo in 1665. The artist uses a technique that makes the lighter colors seem heavenly and the dark a mysterious level of black .

This is the Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Roelas.  He used the contrast of earthly and heavenly planes in most of his works.

Beautiful Ceiling

After bathing in the works of Spanish painters from the 15th and 16th century we moved on to the lesser rooms but were pleasantly surprised.

The head of John the Baptist done by Delgado in 1591.

I noticed it was donated in 1980.  I wonder if this was sitting in someone's living room.

Sevillano 1790
Does this look familar?  I guess Michaelangelo wasn't the only one to depict the Last Supper.  There were several different "Last Suppers"

                                    Weeping over the Dead Christ by Millan in 1490 out of clay.

We were all captivated with room five and Dennis and I could have spent days in the rest of the museum's rooms.  But the girls' legs were exhausted and we still needed to get back home so it was time to say good-bye.

We are thankful for the paintings and sculptures that so vividly tell the stories of the past.

Seville's Cathedral and Plaza de Espana

Seville's Saint Mary's Cathedral is the largest gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest Christian church in the world. It was a mosque that had been Christianized in 1248.  It was ruined in the 1300's because of an earth quake and then re-built in 1402 because the mosque wasn't in good condition. The decision of the members of the church head was: "Let a church so beautiful and so great that those who see it built will think we are mad." The construction was finished in 1506.



Interesting tid bits: The altar piece is the largest in the world at 98 feet high and 66 feet wide.

The tomb of Christopher Columbus resides here.

The cathedral contains 80 chapels.

Replica of the minaret that stands a-top the bell tower.

Buildings that have replicated the Giralda are
the Wrigley building in Chicago and a building in
Kansas City along with the Ferry building in San 
Francisco. 

One of the pieces of the mosque that was kept was the minaret.  A minaret is a distinctive architectural feature of Islamic mosques generally a tall spire with an onion shaped or conical crown, usually either free standing or taller than any associated support structure. The basic form of a minaret includes a base, shaft, and gallery. Styles vary regionally and by period. Minarets provide a visual focal point and are used for the call to prayer. (thank you Wikipedia). 

Cathedral's bell tower with minaret of a woman on top.



A portion of the backside of the cathedral.

The Seville Cathedral is surrounded by small columns linked with huge chains. These chains were placed in 1565 to prevent the merchants from entering the temple with their horses when the weather was bad. It also marked the boundaries of the sacred places, where the civil justice could not be enforced. People used to go there looking for protection and redemption




Another building we walked by had beautiful hand carvings that appear to be abstract unil a closer look was taken. How many faces can you see in this small area? Their are over 5,000 carvings of faces on the building.

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Another side of the well carved building.

Plaza de Espana

Each in-let along the left side contained a mosaic of Spanish
cities.

Plaza de Espana was built for a world's fair held in Seville, Spain from May 9, 1929 to June 21, 1930. Countries in attendance of the exposition included: Portugal, The United States, Brazil, Uruguay, Mexico, Peru, Argentina, Chile, the Republic of Colombia, Cuba, Venezuela, the Dominican Republic, Bolivia, Panama, El Salvador, Costa Rica, and Ecuador. The purpose of the exposition was to improve relations between Spain and the countries in attendance, many of which were former Spanish colonies.

Raleigh stands in front of a mosaic representing one of the cities

The hand painted tile work was  beautiful.  The whole square was vast yet romantic with the boats rowing around the circle. 

The red hair must have intrigued the Japanese tourists as they crowded around Raleigh to take his photo and later the girls were asked to pose with a tourist for a picture.  

It was a long day for as we walked 10 miles through the city but stopping for tapa's in the Santa Cruz was an excellent end to our day. 

 

Peaceful Easy Feeling (DAR)

We glided up the highway from Seville to Madrid, the city from which we depart and thus bring conclusion to this adventure.  The road was smooth and free of traffic.  The morning weather was perfect.  The family was quietly relaxing.  Glenda, our mostly-trusty GPS, had us on a long and straight course and I began to reminisce within my own mind.

I don’t know what it is about music but it does a grand job of evoking emotion.  Bly was playing my favorites and before I knew it I was the tearful father hiding the moist eyes behind the stage of a supposedly attentive driver.

Marathon runners are special and admirable people.  They conquer what most people only dream, and from what I am told, become emotional at the end of their accomplishment—especially their first. 

Well, this day, I felt like a marathon runner.   A peaceful, easy feeling came over me as this journey nears its end.  A feeling of accomplishment.  A feeling of doing something special and worthwhile.  A feeling of investing into something that will pay dividends for a lifetime.  A feeling that my family will be better off because of it. 

The first musical selection was the same song that was performed at my grandmother Dodie’s graveside service.  My thoughts wandered about how wonderful, but scary, she would think our adventure would be.  I thought of how I would shop the crystal stores in my previous trips to Europe decades ago to find her those perfect figurines.  Then, I thought of how she must have terribly missed my mom when she went to Europe—not for 3 months but for 3 years at the tender age of 18.

The hardest part of being gone anywhere is missing the family and friends we love, and that’s why we live where we do. 

The next two musical selections were from our early days together and from our wedding.  My thoughts went to those that supported us more than 15 years ago and those that continue today.  I also thought of the things that couples dream of doing together.  Bly and I dreamed of healthy children, a big house where we all could live, and seeing worldly places which three months ago seemed only a dream as they were so far away.

Without action, dreams are only dreams.  Make a Bucket List and use check marks—but be sure to keep adding to the list so it doesn’t reach zero.

During the Madrid drive I also pondered how my brother must feel with the announcement of the first family wedding—his daughter, Katie, the first of all of the cousins/grandkids.  I knew in his eyes she was 13 years old just yesterday.  I also recalled Mitch’s daughter at age 13 and then bam, she graduated from college and then married.

Bly and I are blessed with three girls of ages 10, 13, and 13—all of whom will be married tomorrow, or so it may eventually seem.

The girls’ ages now combined with numerous other factors made for very good timing of this adventure.  Bly and I gave this trip the importance of a “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity.  We knew however that one goal was to instill the notion into our children’s ambitions that anything is possible and that if you accomplish something once it is easier to realize again.

Thanksgiving is tomorrow, and as the drive to Madrid continues, I know I have far more to be thankful for than deserved.  God has blessed the United States like no other nation on this Earth and my family is fortunate enough to share that blessing.  It only takes an occasional trip abroad to further one’s appreciation of the many things taken for granted at home. 

Traveling for an extended time has also made me thankful for something that probably would never have come to light—something that not all families have, not even at home in the little town of Beatrice.  Our three month adventure has been a fantastic experience.  It has not been a vacation filled with fancy hotel reservations and lobby restaurants, however almost all of our lodging arrangements have been wonderful.  It was the very few times when a roof over our heads was in doubt that really make us as parents realize the importance of a reliable and constant home.  The next meal was also coincidentally at risk during these same few times, after all there isn’t a chain restaurant or supermarket on every block, or for that matter in every neighborhood, or even in every sector of town.

The valuable part of this enlightening adventure was when we realized the necessity of stable lodging and the ability to keep a family fed.  We now have some slight insight that if a child does not have a place to call home and does not know from where their next meal will come, nothing else really matters to them—they cannot concentrate and they cannot learn.  Our measly few temporary situations pale in comparison to some struggling families.  For continuous shelter and plenty of food at a place in Beatrice we call home, we are grateful.  

We are also thankful for the people that have enabled us to do this trip.  Your support prior to our departure and then continuing during the last three months has been amazing.  A huge thank you to our family, friends, work associates, and those we have not even met yet who have supported us, followed us, and communicated with us.  Happy Thanksgiving!

Seville Street Folks

We drove two and a half hours north of Marbella to Seville.  Seville is the fourth largest city in Spain.  We have an apartment in the city for 4 nights and have taken in the culture with gusto.  First of all, the parking is just like they talk of it on Seinfeld.  If you get a parking place on the street close to home DON'T move the car!  We just so happened to get one a half a block away and walked everywhere for the 4 days we've been here.  To park in a parking garage is about forty dollars a day.  I don't mind walking, it's the best way to see, smell and hear the details of the city.  Also, the streets are incredibly narrow and most of them are one-ways.

Our first day out was misty and a bit cloudy which usually makes me feel a little glum but our devotion that morning was on thankfulness which was perfect to set me straight.  Our whole day was absolutely bliss and I felt energized by the weather.  Attitude is everything and I can't control the things that happen to and around me but I can control how I respond to them.

These ladies were so adorable, sharing an umbrella
and they had just come from the bakery

The first square we came upon was still a little sleepy but the trees and churches were interesting enough without the people.

Confiterias have pastries, cakes, candies, many fine desserts as well as sandwiches and coffees.  The cases were laid out beautifully. 

It's very European to stand while having a drink or eats.  It often costs more to sit at a table.

Now that we were in a hustle bustle area we were ready for the day.  We were met with so many different street people.  We are not to judge, these are just our observations.  There are the people such as this guy, that sometimes have a dog and are sitting and looking at passers-by with an empty pan for money.  This man smiles at the girls after they give him some euros.

Then there are the single musicians.  I love these people because they add a flavor to the streets that enhance my experience.  They are doing something for a euro or two and I am happy to stop and listen and then contribute.

Then the people that are selling physical objects.  This man is making ash trays out of aluminum cans and selling them for a half a euro.  His handi-work was excellent.

This man and his daughter are selling roasted chestnuts.  They filled the air with a yummy smokey smell that reminds me of my dad stoking the open fire back home.  I bought some to tame my curiosity but the only one who enjoyed them was Raleigh.

" chestnuts roasting on the open fire....."

The lady in the purple is a gypsy approaching a tourist.

Finally the humdinger of them all are the Gypsy women with the rosemary leaves.  I know better than to take anything from anyone off the street because of all the tourist books I had read.  I was standing in front of the cathedral taking photos, minding my own sweet business, and a lady comes up to me with a leaf in her hand and she's trying to give it to me.  She is being so sweet and pleading with me to take it.  I kept telling her, "no, thank you" but before I knew what was happening she put it in my hand and closed my fingers around it.  Then she started to read my palms so I just smiled at her and of course had no idea what she was saying except when she told me I wouldn't have any children.....hee,hee,hee.  When she was done doing her thing I tried to hand her leaf back to her but there was no chance of her taking it back.  I started to walk away but she grabbed my arm and rubbed her fingers together to show me she wanted money for the 'reading.'  I was so thankful I had on my sweat pants with no pockets, no bag of any sort and a shirt with no pockets.  I told her I was sorry and had no money as I showed her my pocketless sweat pants.  Oh boy, that sweet little lady was NOT happy with me.  Later in the day we found a cluster of five of these women and video taped them for several minutes in the act.  There was a definite ring leader and she would get very angry if her girls got turned down by tourists, yelling at them for not doing it right.  It was quite a sight.  We all watched them for about 45 minutes while waiting for the cathedral to open.  I don't have great pics because I was too busy getting video.  I later read that they ask for atleast 20 or 30 euros after a reading and have been known to ask people to go to the ATM and then follow them.  I did see a tourist thank a gypsy, kiss her after the reading and give her a 20 euro bill!!!

Paella is an authentic Spanish dish made with rice, fish and meat.  The girls and Raleigh enjoyed it. 

We feel so blessed to be going home in 8 days to our family and friends.  We are trying to experience life to the fullest without wishing our last week away.

Ronda

Ronda is a fabulous village known most famously for the birthplace of modern bullfighting. When your country is as old as Spain anything after the 1600's must mean the 'modern' age! The fighting season ends in September so we were going for the cobbled streets that would lead us to the Peurto Nuevo, 'new' bridge that was built in the 18th century and hangs over the El Tajo gorge.  The structure straddles the 100m chasm below.  We gasped at the unparalleled views out over the Serranía de Ronda mountains.

We accidentally came into the town through the backdoor but our mistake provided us with wonderful opportunity.  We walked through a very old neighborhood where we were met with a wonderful shop that boasted locally, handcrafted items.

Behind these doors lies an abundance of treasures....who would have thought!

Indi, Annie, Ireland and Mom

The region of Andalusia is also known for its white villages.

This street was lined with restaurants.

We were having a splendid day until we were hit with siesta.  These people take their naps very seriously!  We asked a shopkeeper what the hours were and his response was, "we open around 10 or 11 and then close at 1:30 and re-open around 4, or 5 or 6."

The whole family enjoyed Ronda and hoped to return a few days later but there was a down pour of rain.  Maybe some day we will return for a bull fight.

Gibraltar

One of the main reasons we wanted to travel this far south was to go to the Strait of Gibraltar. It is a narrow strait that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea and separates Spain in Europe from Morocco in Africa.  The shortest distance between the two continents is 7 miles.  Ferries go across several times a day in only 35 minutes.   It is also known for having apes, or tailess monkeys, that live close to the top.  We could only hope to get a glance of these free running creatures.

Gibraltar is its own country so we would be crossing another border, yay!  We were informed by a local that it is best to park in Le Linea on the Spain side because the traffic is quite congested on the Gibraltar side.

Right after we crossed the border we then had to cross the air strip of the Gibraltar Airport!  That was bizarre.  We fortunately got to see a plane land just moments after we were on the other side.

Gibraltar in background

We passed through a landport that was built in 1772.  At the time it was the only way to get into Gibraltar other than by sea.  Beautiful music was being played by some open hat musicians.  It set the mood for our entrance.  Lovely.

It was supposed to be a sunny day but the rain began to fall as soon as we parked. It would be a long hike to the top and back. We knew we wouldn't melt but we opted for a tour guide to take us up to the four major sites in a van. That's not really our style but Dennis was having trouble with his knee and I continued to nurse an irritated hamstring. Okay, we're weenies.

Morocco is behind us.

The van climbed the steep narrow one-way and we were so relieved to not be walking in the rain.  Our first stop was St. Michael's Cave.  We were excited that the monkeys were out and we were able to get close to them.  We were instructed not to touch them because they could bite.  We also couldn't have any snacks on us or they would try and get them....yikes!  It was a bit intimidating.

This guy waits for the shopkeeper to give him a snack.

The cave was fabulous. It was very roomy inside and the stalagmites, which are the spikes coming out of the floor and the stalactites, the spikes coming from the ceiling were beautiful. One had fallen off and they sliced it in half to reveal growth rings much like that of a tree. The dark rings represented times of drought while the lighter colored rings were during heavy rainfalls.

There is a lower segment in the cave that was prepared as a hospital during WWII.  It is now used as a concert hall.

Our next stop was the Ape's Den where Ronnie, our tour guide, helped us get up close and personal with the apes.  The apes loved us.  Without warning they were on our backs and shoulders. We weren't to touch them so everybody just stood there wating for Ronnie to come to our rescue.

Too bad Ireland didn't have any bugs in her hair that day.

Surely Indi has a banana in her pocket.

Such a comfortable head.

Raleigh looked on at all the entertainment with a cautious smile and had no idea that he also had a new friend.  When the monkey patted his head he thought it was his daddy.  It wasn't until the monkey tried to sit on his head did he shudder with shock.

Ronnie scolded a monkey for thinking about biting Indi.  Hey, you can't blame him, she is a sweetie.

The rock of Gibraltar stands mighty in the background.

Our next stops were the Great Siege Tunnels that were hewn into the rock with the aid of the simplest of tools and gunpowder.
 The 7 miles of tunnels were massive with many canons pointing towards Spain.  There was a huge area called the magazine room that stored the gunpowder.

A tidbit of history on Gibraltar taken from Wikipedia

Gibraltar was conquered by the Moors in 711 a.d. it then became part of the Kindgom of Spain in 1462.  It remained under Spainsh rule until 1704 when it was lost to the British.  Spain continued to fight for it during the 18th century.  It also played a vital role during the WWII by allowing the British to control entrance to the Mediterranean Sea.  Negotiations over Gibraltar's status have continued between Britain and Spain but  no conclusion has been reached.

Raleigh's response when we told him we were going to see some more monkeys, "uh-oh."

Four friends

We had a fabulous day in Gibraltar and it will long be remembered as one of the main highlights of our adventure.